About Graham Cornwell is a writer and historian who specializes in the history of modern Morocco. He has a PhD in History from Georgetown University, and is currently working on a book about the history of Moroccan mint tea.
For most visitors, the classic grand tour of Morocco is a big loop that starts in Casablanca or Rabat, carries on to Volubilis and Fes, turns south to Merzouga and the sand dunes of the Sahara, then turns back west to the High Atlas Mountains and, finally, ends in Marrakesh.
It's a great itinerary, to be sure, and it plays the big hits, so to speak. But on that loop, you'll pass by the crossroads mountain town of Azrou, and you should consider a stop. It's one of those hidden gems of the country where you can enjoy another side of Moroccan culture and get away from the masses of tourists crowding the medinas of Fes and Marrakesh.
Azrou is located where the road from Fes to Khenifra crosses the road from Meknes to Midelt, so most people driving between Fes/Meknes and Merzouga will pass through it. It's also just down the road from Ifrane, a more popular mountain resort town known for its half-timber houses and for being "Morocco's cleanest city."
Azrou has an interesting history. Its name means "the rock" in the local Tamazight (Berber) dialect, referring to the very large rock outcropping in the middle of town. The town proper has a small medina with a handful of interesting shops. This is a great place to check out Middle Atlas rugs. Middle Atlas rugs tend to be kilim and flat-weave, with geometric, often symmetrical, designs. They also tend to be a good bit cheaper than other regional styles (like the Beni Ourain, for example) although you can find great quality here. Try some of the shops on the N8 across from the main traffic circle.
During the period of French colonial rule (1912-1956), it was home to the Collège d'Azrou, a school built by the French specifically to train Berber-speaking Moroccan elites who could serve in their administration (and create a divide with the country's more urban Arab elites). It became a big high school after independence in 1956, named after Tariq ibn Ziyad, the Muslim soldier who launched the first invasion of Spain in 711 (he's also where the name Gibraltar comes from: Jebel Tariq = the mountain of Tariq, eventually shortened to Gibraltar). If you're driving in from Ifrane, you'll pass it on the left-hand side of the road just before you enter Azrou.
During lunchtime, the grill stands on the N8 across from the Jardin Ennour and the Grand Mosque are fun places to eat, with simple kebabs and tajines cooked over coals, served with fresh bread and a brothy sort of harissa typical to Moroccan grill stands. Guichar Boucherie, located in the new city, has a huge range of terrific kebabs as well.
Azrou's main draw is its surrounding mountains with its famous towering cedars and very, very friendly macaque (aka, the Barbary ape) population. The Cèdre Gouraud forest, a short detour off the Fes/Ifrane road, has one of the world's largest Atlas Cedars and a thriving population of macaques ready to rip the bananas, nuts, pretzels, or whatever right out of your hand. There are plenty of easy, pretty trails nearby. If you have a car, its easy to explore on your own, but its also simple to arrange a taxi through the hotel for a half or full day outing.
We usually prefer to stay in the town center if possible, but Azrou is one place where staying in the surrounding countryside is worth it. La Perle d'Azrou, about ten minutes south of town, and the nearby but confusingly named La Perle d'Ifrane are both great picks. They can arrange excursions into the mountains on horseback or by foot or recommend good hiking trails. It's also interesting to stroll through the neighboring villages to get a sense of rural life in the region. Both hotels also do full board options, which is usually delicious and good value. Le Palais des Cerisiers offers more in-house amenities (indoor and outdoor pools, tennis, bar) and is another good option.
Azrou in a nutshell
What to Do: Hiking, Horseback riding, Rug Shopping, Soaking up the mountain air
Where to Stay: La Perle d'Azrou,, La Perle d'Ifrane, Le Palais des Cerisiers
Where to Eat: Grill stands on N8 in the town center, dinner at the hotel
How to Get There: By car (90 mins from Fes, 75 mins from Meknes, 80 mins from Fes-Sais Airport); Bus connections on CTM from Meknes to Azrou al Massira station.
